Some Panoarma Links

I'm starting a list of Panorama links:

1. Randy Forshey has some beautiful work at his web site JustShootMeStudios.com. You'll also find a cool page there shows you the kind of equipment he uses. (Thanks Randy).
2. http://www.panoramas.se/index_eng.htm#

Looking into Tilt-Shift 35mm Lenses

I'm intersted in understandingthe benefit of Tilt-Shift lenses in panoramic photography and have found some interesting links. The DOF control looks fabulous with Perspective Control (PC) lenses.

Here's the link list so far:

1. Roger Eritja's review of the Nikkor Micro 85mm f/2.8 PC lens.
2. Using the 35mm Perspective Control lens (Nikkor Lenses)
3. How Shift Lenses Change your Life (Photo.Net)
4. Some info on the Canon TS-E 90
5. Some interesting discussion on Canon lenses tahat talks about DOF issues as they relate to diffraction.
6. Some more context from Luminous-Landscape on DOF, again Canon Lenses
7. Nice example of the Nikkor 28 PC used to mimic 4x5 formats via Panorama at Photo.net.
   • Part 1
   • Part 2
   • Part 3
8. More discussion of optimal aperatures at Photo.net, Nikkor Lenses

Fabulous Ditigal Photography Tutorials

I stumbled upon the following Digital Photography Tutorials after signing up for StumbleUpon.com:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm

This one on Diffraction & Photography caught my eye:
Diffraction Limited Photography: Pixel Size, Aperature and Airy Disks

Bob Johhnson has a great artical on Diffraction issues at EarthBoundLight.com.
Diffraction: When Smaller Apertures No Longer Mean Sharper Pictures. He mentions it on a this Nikonian post

When is a 200mm lens an 87mm lens?

As the following posts on Nikonians explain, internally focused lenses usually have shorter focal lengths when focused at distances closer than infinity.

Interesting reading at Nikonians.com:

The Nikkor 18-200 VR is a good example
And the discussion of the Nikkor 18-200 VR goes on here
The Nikkor 70-200 VR doesn't seem to have this issue

4x5 and large format references

I've fantasized about the perfect digital sensor that will have amazing detail and the convenience of a DSLR, but we are a few generations away from that. The new Hasselblad H2D-39 certainly looks promising, but I don't have $30K in my new equipment budget.

But 4x5s look like a great alternative for that shot which has amazing detail and unbeliveable DOF.

This 4x5 article by Ken Rockwell has definitly got me thinking. But the cost of renting a darkroom or having a lab develop the film will be a factor.

I'd like to try street shooting with a 4x5. Set it up, get your framing, focus, light readings right and ... wait for the picture, wait for the faces you want to see to walk right to you, and click, a silent, discreet little snap from the shutter cable.

It's not instantaneous, it's not high tech, but man can you imagine the beauty of those images when you get it right. It would be laborous, but it could be amazing, as evidenced by the body of work already made this way.

Adobe Lightroom Beta 3 for Windows

Very initial impressions and feedback: Lightroom looks like it's going to be awesome. I'd like to see some improvements for the Develop UI:

1. All the sliders on the Develop panels need:
   • Check box to turn off adjustment and use default value
   • Plus and Minus buttons for small adjustments or make the the + and - keys do the work. Maybe Shift-+/- for bigger movements. The sliders are TOO impercise and typing in the value, too slow, because as soon as you hit enter, the focus is moved out of the box and you have to reposition to try a different value.
   • I couldn't figure out how to change the image size once I'm in develop mode. I assume if I make the image smaller the adjustment time will be FASTER and I'll spend less time looking at the "Working..." message. If I take the image to 100% and only want to see 10% of it to judge the affect of the adjustment on that 10%, I would like to see the "Working..." message take only 1/10 of the time.

Lens Info

My lens reference page.

I'm looking for a portrait lens, the Zeiss ZF 85mm f1.4 is looking like a very compeling choice. Here are links I'm reviewing on the topic:

1. "Zeiss ZF Planar T* 1.4/50" Nikonian Thread

Filter Discussions - Miscellaneous Filter Info

Miscellaneous Filter Info

1. Really interesting Netural Density (ND) color cast discussion on Nikonians - need to read rest...

Understanding Nikon Depth of Field Lens Charts

The following DOF chart is from a Nikkor 28mm F/1.4. I'm confused by the row for 15.0 feet. Notice that the entries under f/5.6 - f/16 show one end of the range to be ZERO, I assume this should be INFINITY, right?

Nikkor 28mm F/1.4 DOF Chart

Larger Chart

Nikon Speedlight Multiple Strobe setups SB-800, SB-600

I have four SB-800 and have used them in a hotel promotional shot setup. But I need to learn a LOT more about strobe lighting and lighting in general. This blog entry is my resource for that quest:

1. Stobist: Lighting 101
2. Nikonian Thread on strobe stands
3. B&H Photoflex Umbrella Kit referenced in above thread.
4. Nikonian thread on team photo with 35 people and several SB-800
5. Speedlight Forum on Nikonians
6. TTL vs TTL BL with wireless Nikonian thread
7. Shooter who uses 10 strobes in a D1/D2 Nikonian thread on D2X back-up body
8. Mike Hagen's Using the Nikon Creative Lighting System
9. Flash 102: A Primer for Using Flash on a Modern SLR; By Andrew Kantor
10. LumiQuest Website
11. Gary Fong Lightsphere-II Cloud
12. Gary Fong Lighsphere-II Clear
13. Nikonians Nikon D200 and Nikon's Creative Lighting System by Digital Darrell
14. Great Nikonian thread entry explaining pre-flashes and IR communication of SB-800 and SU-800.

Shooting Panoramas with the Manfrotto 303SPH

Researching problems with my panorama setup using a Manfrotto 303SPH. I found a good review some of the best pano heads.

I thought there must be something wrong with my Manfrotto head because it vibrates and seems flimsy to me. To my suprise the reviewer found that all of the 3 heads he reviewed exhibited "sag", which when bad enough requires the photographer to shim the camera on the bracket. It's pretty unbeliveable that you can pay so much money for a pan head and have this problem.

Really Right Stuff (RRS) has a panorama head that looks nice. I wonder if it has the sag problem

After some false starts I now understand how to setup the Manfroto 303SPH Panorama head

Here are some pictures showing how to setup the camera base plate holder:

How to setup Camera Base Plate Holder - Click for Larger

Rear View of Assembly - Click for Larger

Front View of Assembly - Click for Larger

Pictures showing the base plate attached to the camera:

Notice how I've chosen to line up the white line with a line in the bottom of the body. The important thing is to remember where you line it up so that you can record the 303SPH settings for each lens used for panoramas once it's center point and nodal points are found.

Base Plate Attached to Camera - Click for Larger View

Base Plate Attached to Camera Close Up- Click for Larger View

Pictures showing camera attached to the 303SPH:

Camera Attached to 303SPH, Front View - Click for Larger

Camera Attached to 303SPH, Rear View

Camera Attached to 303SPH shows tripod head and top of legs - Click for Larger

Find and record the center and nodal point settings for each lens you want to use with your panorama head (and for zooms I believe this will be focal length specific). In addition determine the degrees you'll use in rotations in both vertical and horizontal directions.

I'm testing out my lens setups in my apartment and carefully recording the settings for each. By pretesting and recording a lens setup, time in the field can be used to focus on the shot.

Recorded settings are not helpful unless you put the 303SPH together the same way each time. The above pictures detail the head setup I use. Heres what I have so far:

1. 12-24mm Nikkor f/4 DX - set to smallest focal length 12mm
   • * Camera Base Plate: 52.3mm - for center point
   • Top Rail (attached to camera base plate holder): 81.5mm for nodal point
   • Bottom Rail (attached to head): 44mm for center point
   • Horizontal Degrees: 20
   • Vertical Degrees: Not Tested
   
   
2. 28mm Nikkor f/1.4
   • * Camera Base Plate: *needs to be remeasured* for center point
   • Top Rail (attached to camera base plate holder): 73mm for nodal point
   • Bottom Rail (attached to head): 49.3mm for center point
   • Horizontal Degrees: 20
   • Vertical Degrees: tested at 30, but had to hand set control points for 2 sets, I will test again at 20

* I align the camera base plate white line with the indentation in the bottom of the Nikon D2X body closest to the tripod mount.

Nikon D2X camera body bottom and 303SPH camera base plate, Larger View

Some Other Info:
Kekus thread on Manfrotto 303SPH compliactions

Essential Nikon D2X info AF sensors

Essential reads for understanding Nikon D2X Autofocus:

1. D2X AF Sensor size article from Nikonians
2. D2X Multi-CAM 2000 Autofocus Guide from Nikonians
3. Fabulous D2X info list of articles on Nikonians
4. Great site with test focus charts, centered around the D70 but applicable to any camera:Tim Jackson's Nikon D70 Site

Maximize Depth of Field by focusing to the Hyperfocal Distance - essential for lenses with missing DOF scales

I'm an old shooter, starting with an old Yashica manual 35mm and Rolleicord 2 1/4. My life changed and when I finally had time to pursue my photography again I was excited to pick up some new equipment. Everything seems even more expensive than it used to be and I know quality has improved (on some fronts), but I was surprised that the old Depth of Field (DOF) scales were absent on newer Nikon lenses. I understand the reason being there is no room for them. Given the importance of DOF I'm surprised the lens engineers can't provide the photographer with some assist.

Fortunately I found a great hyperfocal thread on on Nikonians and feel empowered. Add to that my new Katz Eye split prism focus screen (also discovered on Nikonians), when it comes an I'll be close to having the focusing and DOF control I used to have with my old Yashica :-/ Here are some links related to this quest:

1. Nikonians thread on KatzEye Optics Split-Prism focus screens for Nikon DSLR
2. Nikonians Hyperfocal Thread that inspired this blog entry
3. Nikonians Hyperfocal charts and tips
4. Nikonians DOF & Hyperfocal Distance by J. Ramon Palacios
5. Nikonians Hyperfocal Illustration
6. DOFMaster - All Articles Page
7. DOFMaster Hyperfocal Distance Guide
8. DOFMaster FAQ incl "Cirle of Confusion
9. ExpoAperture Depth of Field Guide. Advertised at DOFMaster, looks neat. Here are a couple of Google hits.
   • LetsGoDigital Review
   • Adorama has a good product info page on it
10. Online DOF table from DOFMaster
11. Hyperfocal Forumula Page
12. EarthBound Light - Changing Focus Screns in Nikon SLR Cameras
13. Nikonians Hyperfocals Table
14. Nikon knowledge database recommendation for Hyperfocal Distance Calculation
    I assume Nikon intended this answer to be for film because the D2X Circle of Confusion is 0.02mm while for 35mm film it is 0.03mm to two decimal places.

    Topic: How can I calculate hyperfocal distance?
    
    Question
    
    My lens doesn't have depth-of-field scales. How do I calculate the 
    hyperfocal distance?
    
    Answer
    
    For any Nikkor lens that does not have a depth-of-field scale, 
    hyperfocal distances can be calculated manually for any focal 
    length and aperture combination by using the formula:
    
    H = f2 / F (0.033)
    
    where "H" is the hyperfocal distance in mm, "f" is the focal length,
    and "F" is the aperture.
    
    For example, with a 50mm lens set at f/8, H = 50x50 / 8 x 0.033,
    so H is 9470mm (9.47 meters or approximately 31 feet). Setting the
    focus on the lens to this distance will render subjects from half 
    this distance to infinity acceptably sharp.
    

Upsizing a Nikon D2X NEF; billboard, posters, high res art prints, what resolutions are required ?

I'm really interested to learn the workflow required to get the largest and highest quality DPI prints from a Nikon D2X NEF.

These 2 goals are different in that a billboard prints needs a lower DPI than an Art Magazine. But the both have several things in common, (1) the underlying starting point is a D2X NEF, (2) they can both make you money, i.e. these are essential commercial workflows.

The published work I've done so far was only for a small magazine and newsletter, but I want to change that!

This blog entry will be updated with info and links as I find out more of the secrets of the big picture / fine art post processing.

Links so far

1. Dan Heller does a great job explaining things.
2. Here's one link from Nikonians which states, "Genuine Fractal is capable to upsize image up to 600%. PS7 bicubic is good for 200%. together they can produce 1200%."
3. Martin Turner clarifies the issue of billboard DPI in this Nikonian post (Thank You). He explains that UK billboard work requires 14MP and upsizing is therefore not an issue for the kind of billboard layouts they do. Please see the thread.
   Mr. Turner has provided additional details and insights on on this post
4. Here's a good Nikonian thread on Image Size for print sizes.
5. RIPs
   • PrePressure's What is a RIP and how does it work?
   • Nikonian thread on RIP Software.
   • Nikonian thread on ImagePrint RIP Review.
6. Printer Info
   • Good Nikoian thread on Fuji Pictography 3000
   • Epson pro 4800 VS pro 4800 Professional edition
   • Epson Net 10/100Base-TX Type B Internal Ethernet Print Server from Adorama

Some questions:

1. Q: What is the best practice for getting to an 200% upsize? A: ?
2. Q: What are the practical limits of upsizing a D2X NEF, how big can you go? A:
   1. Martin Turner provides some valuable insights on upsizing this Nikonian post.
   2. Here's a good Nikonian thread on Image Size for print sizes.
3. Q: What resolution and DPI does a high fashion or art magazine typically require? A: ?
4. Q: What workflows are required to get a NEF to a billboard? A: "The screen is usually 15 dpi, for which you need 30 ppi, or, more usually, design the board at 10% size with all pictures 300 dpi." - Martin Turner at Nikonians Mr. Turner has provided additional details and insights on on this post

Nikon D2X Resolution to DPI Chart

Larger Chart

More to come...

Nikon in Camera Sharpening

As I read in a couple of places, sharpening causes you to loose information, as does noise reduction. For work destined to be post processed, in camera sharpening should be off. Here's are some good Nikonian Links:

1. Nikonian "Denoise or sharpen first" thread
2. Nikonian "Sharpen in camera or post?" thread

Tools

1. PhotoKit Sharpener
2. Noise Ninja

Nikon in Camera Tonal Compensation

I'm researching the best settings for my D2X (p. 68). Here is some useful info found so far:

http://www.planetneil.com/nikon/custom-curves.html

Which was embedded in the following Nikonian link: http://www.nikonians.org/dcforum/DCForumID79/8.html#0

Chromatic Aboration or Color Fringing Question

This post has renamed to Chromatic Aberration or Color Fringing Question and moved to here to keep existing links from breaking :)